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laser cutting ss with vinyl
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Source：Internet Author：Unknow Pubdate：2008-04-14
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thermeng2 (Mechanical)
13 Jul 05 13:52
Hi,
In the past when I try to cut ss with the vinyl still on, it blows off as I cut it and causes tip up alarms and makes a mess. I started etching the parts before cutting to remove the vinyl before cutting. This adds alot of time to cutting the part. I have heard that there are different types of vinyl made just for laser cutting but have had no luck in finding such a thing. If any one has heard of this please share the info.
Thanks
fastasleep (Mechanical)
14 Jul 05 1:22
The masking you are asking about is called either laser-tack or high-tack. Any supplier of vinyl-covered stainless sheet should know the difference between that and low-tack masking.
The best method I've found for cutting thru is to pre-pierce thru the vinyl first by keeping the head up well away from the material and shoot a pulsed beam at it. This will melt the vinyl at the pierce point. You then lower the head to the material and perform a normal pierce. The pre-pierce for the vinyl must be set just right in order to melt the area away without lifting the masking. 字串8
The biggest problem with the high-tack is that it is very difficult to remove. A copper knife is probably the best way to lift some of it to facilitate peeling the rest without scratching the stainless surface.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Greg7152 (Industrial)
3 Aug 05 13:02
Another way to do it is to keep the head up @ low power(enough to burn away the coating)and outline the part, then go back and cut it with the regular parameters.
Waylon (Industrial)
27 Sep 05 12:33
I've found a few types of film that work well. We also cut thing SS with a plastic coating. Nitto is a film that has a VERY high tack and almost never blows off under normal cutting. Polifilm has a few different styles that are a bit easier to peel
mglaserinc (Industrial)
8 Nov 05 3:33
字串2
Most steel suppliers have an option for laser film. This will not blow off during cutting. If you use the standard film, the previous post is most accurate. You can trace the part at a high gap and low power to pre-burn the coating and then cut the parts. If you have a foot follower this is more important. If you are using a non-contact cutting head you can usually get away with the coating bubbling up a bit.
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